Monday, March 21, 2011
south island journey begins
Once we arrived, booked into our room we got our bearings and had a nap due to the extended flight delay. We found ourselves right by beautiful Wanaka Lake, about 3 minutes from the town centre and just about any type of restaurant you could desire.
We found for the first time our new favourite food store, New World, where we could get everything we needed from coffee to wine. We stocked up on some breakfast provisions with terrific yoghurt and cereal. And lots and lots of that great Kiwi Pinot Gris.
The next day we had a leisurely time around the pool getting our first real sun tanning day where did nothing and had to go nowhere. We used the pool and slide to refresh ourselves a few times interspersed with light refreshments and enjoyed on time on the comfy chaise lounges .
As there is supposed to be a BBQ at the resort we booked a table but were sorely disappointed because they felt the weather was not good enough to eat out side (we are in shorts and flip-flops?) and we ended up with a buffet instead. Somehow BBQ lamb cannot be replaced by chicken, beef, snags (sausages) and other items just from the kitchen. We did however enjoy the happy hour with a great Sauvignon Blanc for $4 NZ a glass just before dinner, should have stocked up on the wine and scarfed down the bar snacks instead of dinner.
Off to the Rob Roy Glacier walk (easy says all the literature) but first we must ford a few water crossings on our 50+ km drive. Hmm, we only have a passenger car so we get out to survey the first ford when another car blithely passes through it and by the time we return to the car another couple of vehicles pass through as well. Well if anyone gets stuck it will not be us.
At the parking lot we see lots of people preparing for the trek with boots, slickers, hats, walking poles basically everything we don’t have but off we set. As usual, we came to realize, the trail began in an easy rolling manner and then it changed
. Now we are going to view a glacier, right. Where are glaciers, up the mountain of course, gee who would have thunk it! Up we go, over washed out areas, past creeks rushing down to the river valley, look for the little orange triangles when the trail disappears. We pass older folks with smiles on their faces heading down with a spring in their step. Well we are not going be to shown up by old farts. Remember the Monty Python skit from the Meaning of Life, come follow me it’s not far, we are almost there. Words of encouragement send us onwards and of course Upwards. We get to a resting point, only 30 minutes away now, when an American going down convinces our weak spirits to continue for the spectacular reward. Other people offer us a walking stick for the continuation. Naw we are Canadians, we are tough, this is just a little mole hill compared to our mountains. We make it and what a reward it is. Our photos just don’t do the scenery justice, you have to feel the atmosphere. Think, Lord of the Rings.
We find a relatively flat but slopping rock to have our lunch. Today I got lesson in weight distribution. Yes, let’s eat our lunch and lighten my load, no the weight just goes to a different location so everything packed up goes down just not in the pack.
We had quite few moochers, Kea birds, tried to join us and everyone else for lunch. They don‘t just want bread scraps. What they really want is the rubber on our Teva walking sandals. Obstinate and aggressive buggers they were. Well it was worth it even when we thought we were caught in a rain storm that turned out to be just the spray being blown back up the valley from all the waterfalls tumbling down from the heavens. And obviously we made it down safe and sound as our travels continue.
Up very early before sun rises the next day for our tour to the Milford Sound. We decided on a tour because the trip although not that far, was going to be a 12 - 14 hour day. Coming back would have been a bugger for AJ and we made a good decision after we experienced the road. We had a small bus with the only seats remaining in the back of the bus next a couple of overflowing individuals so we were a wee bit cramped. Plus the seats were probably designed for thin Japanese tourists. At the first rest stop AJ commandeered the shotgun seat and had a fantastic view for the rest of the trip, when he was awake that is. Definitely a good decision to have someone else do the driving on this trip that was rather challenging in spots. The scenery was exceptional and with a few stops along the way to experience some NZ uniqueness we arrive at the tunnel that has one way traffic at the beginning of the decent to sea level and the Sound. The tunnel or maybe it was the entire road way took over 30+ years to complete (construction stopped for WW II). The tunnel drops 1200 metres in its short distance and only the entrances are reinforced for about 100 metres.
We arrive quite early as there was very little traffic on the road, only about 5 tour busses while the previous day there were 22 large busses, so we got to see our vessel come into dock. They take their queuing very seriously here no getting on the wrong vessel without some commotion.
The boat trip was beautiful but I must say we have just as spectacular fjords but not the legends, that I know about, such as if you get a bit of spray from one particular water fall you would gradually look 10 years younger. We took a bath in those Falls and now can you believe it we have to show id when we purchase liquor!
After our long trip back we stopped in an old mining town, Arrowtown, for dinner before heading back over the mountain for bed around 11:00 PM.
The following day we tackle Mt. Iron just over there, you see it virtually every day, with an easy walk, ok we accomplished an easy trek so hard can an easy walk be?
Well once again we are going up a mountain and this time there is a gale blowing off the lake so we head up the back side. Relatively gentle slope upwards but then we have stairs to negotiate after which the trail becomes more like 4th Ave between Stephens and Balsam Streets. Recall the Friendly Giant, Look up, Look Way up. We struggle, we puff, we pause for breath, we lean on our thighs. This is very challenging for us. Then, we look up. A mother, a grandmother and two little girls in raincoats and rubber boots have already done the climb and are working their way down. An older man walks briskly towards us wearing only flip flops - he walks like he is out for a stroll. It was all very demoralizing. Just when we thought we were getting into shape along come these Kiwis and show us what walking (tramping) is really all about. Sigh….Oh yes and as we are making our weary way down that guy in the flip flops is heading up again. Double sigh… Not to for get the young woman running up the hill who passed us when she going down as well then passed us again while she was heading up once more, for who knows how many times. Quick now don’t let her lap us again going down. Yea we win, sort of.
We search out a picnic spot away from the lake and the blustery day we just experienced on top of the mount. We find it a few clicks away by a gentle brook and tuck in.
That evening we go out for a movie experience. Playing was The Tourist, Johnny Depp & Angelina Jolie, and the theatre showed three different movies throughout the day. Attached to it is a small restaurant where you may purchase your usual theatre goodies or some form of libation which you can take into the theatre. There is a mid-movie break so we ordered our dinner, two Moroccan lamb burgers, headed into the theatre with the rest of the cattle stampede and ensconced ourselves into a very comfy love seat. Now who could complain about holding your love close to you while you both enjoy your glass of wine?
Half time and our table is reserved for us and as we set ourselves down the wine is served and then the lamb burgers are presented. Do you like beet root? Well if you don’t, don’t order any type of burger in NZ, it’s like French fried potatoes in Ireland you just get them regardless. End of the movie we head home as AJ has a big day ahead of him. BUNGY JUMP!!!!!!
We are up, not awake though, so we get our coffee, cereal & yoghurt ready and have a somewhat relaxing breakfast. On goes the heart monitor, steady 58, ok the drive over the mountain will pick it up, up to 70 even with the careening around corners as I monitor the rate. Arrive at the bridge must be getting excited as I now am 80+. Ok now out on the bridge and look over, no major change. Ok go in a register, too early just about 90 as I watch other video footage. Finally get registered, 97 kg pretty damn good as I was only 96 kg when I was at the Healthy Heart program. Walk out and wait for the jump crew. As I get strapped up I reach 92, shuffle out to the edge up to 93. Last minute instructions and I let them know I would be very disappointed if I do not at least touch the water, I asked for at least waist level. Alright don’t jump out too far as this will reduce the actual downward travel. Look at the cameral then look at the other camera, shit the rate has risen to 93. Get the direction right, look down wrong, what am I doing here, just a minute I think have I got all the details right. 5,4,3,2,1 I hear from behind. Damned if you do damned if you don’t. Out I go, what a feeling, did I really feel anything, not a sound just the air rushing by, the water coming closer, better bring the arms in for impact, fingers touch the water I slip into the river like a hot knife must pass through soft butter. Retracted faster than I entered realizing I never made as sound going down, time for the McKenzie Bros. famous Great White North call. Rebound give a yell of joy. Get pulled in and lowered into the rescue raft, untethered and back on shore. V for victory or was it the peace sign? HR only 92 when I thought of looking in the raft. Guess I need a bit more excitement in my life maybe skydiving next. Running back up the hill I finally get a rate of 130+ until I stop at the top. Buy all the extras, video, photos, postcards and get a free tee-shirt for the 34m jump. I would (will) do it again when the moths are too thick in my wallet.
We head back, around the mountain and stop for a cider which turns out to be about 100 metres from where we ate lunch just the other day and as we walk in there is a fire blazing away, t-shirts, shorts and flip flops for us again.
Going to post this as we are leaving Auckland and may or may not get some photos attached prior to our departure. We start our journey northward the next day.
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Auckland
We spent four days here and we think we can say with some authority that we know this city as well as any tourist can. Enjoy the photos.
PJ & AJ
the Auckland skyline from the ferry
Half mast for Christchurch
Thursday, February 24, 2011
We shouldn’t be left on our own!!!!
Well it has so much to offer that as usual we could not possibly see everything suggested. We landed in Hobart (Slobart to the locals) and got ourselves settled. To our limited knowledge of the Aussie calendar it was a state holiday with the wooden boat show going on. Great, not so with just about everything closed, restaurants, bottle shops, pubs even.
Off we go down to the harbour and catch the end of the boat show on the water. We saw lots of beautiful wooden masted ships and plenty of replicas.
Now we made many a reference to the cost of food in Ireland in our last blog but we experienced the zenith in Tassie, Just as an example the highest cost for fish and chips was $30. OK, so you don’t have to tip and it comes with real cutlery, a salad and a napkin but really $30 for fish and chips in a country where seafood is so plentiful. Yet no one seemed to blink and eye for F&C at $23, average cost. We walked also around the area where the Salamanca market is held on Saturdays only.
After a short nap we took the car and started to look for a bottle shop and a restaurant. Found both in the same area but not much to write home about. Anyways as we got back into the car Pave’ noticed her credit card, which she had just used to pay for dinner with, was no longer in her hand or in her bag. Back to the bottle shop and restaurant, no luck at either place. Empty out her purse, turn it inside out littering the pavement with North American contaminants. Nope not there either. Look in the car under the seats, on the seats, beside the seats, in the trunk (why I don’t know but leave not stone unturned) and then break into a prolific sweat because Nada! Pave’ was certain it was the Russians lounging around outside the area where the car was parked that pilfered the card right out of her hand and she had the cut on her finger to prove it.
Skyped Visa and cancelled the card, got a new one sent to a destination in New Zealand (we hope), drink wine, try to sleep. OK we are in downtown where all the cross walks have sounds for the visually impaired which go from the slow single beep to the erratic beep on speed and we had one of these crossings right outside our window. Needless to say not a terrific sleep but the Internet was cheap so we caught up on pre-planning.
Decide to head north to Launceston as our next base rather than travel every day. Arrived later that day, Tuesday, and found our spot in Grindelwald, a faux Swiss village atmosphere. A swim and another rest (driving on the opposite side is a bit exhausting) dinner at the restaurant and small walk and prep for the next day. But wait where is the camera, not in my pack, not in Pave’s pack, cannot find it in the car but it is so dark I cannot see or feel anything. So that night’s sleep was a bit fitful. How much will a new camera cost, what kind can we find etc?
One more look in the car with more light and low and behold it was in the glove compartment.
Off to Launceston and the Cataract Gorge where we took the chairlift across the river which has the longest single span for a chairlift in the world (304 meters). Samantha and Pave’ took this little ride 25 years ago. “It seemed so big back then“. Now as chairlifts go don’t get excited that you are missing something dramatic because you aren’t but you do travel through a channel of giant rhododendron trees where your feet can brush the leaves. One way was 5 minutes and I think a slow boat to China is faster. Off we trek down one side of the gorge and enjoy the well fenced and paved pathway. We were going to take a boat trip up the gorge but we already saw it so cancel the boat. After we get to the bottom we have to get back up, well let’s take the trail up the other side. WARNING, HIKERS ONLY, pashaw we decide we can do it, besides who wants to go back the way you just came down. Well 20 sweaty minutes later we emerged from our foray on the Zigzag trail.
Cataract Gorge
Lunch time and off for our picnic, not a problem right, well no picnic tables to be found anywhere inside Launceston. So out of town scouting out picnic table sites. We almost got back to out hotel when we take a chance, shoot across the highway and actually find a spot by the highway at the wildlife sanctuary. Now back home being so close to the road would definitely not be a good idea but here with maybe 1 or 2 cars a minute we did not mind it. After our obligatory bottle of wine, with meat, cheese, bread, tomato and what ever else we picked up for our meal. Off we go for a self guided walking tour of Launceston, which as you can imagine was not without a few surprises.
That evening we drove into town to hear some music. Found a restaurant/pub with music at 9:00, shared a nice dinner and then went for a walk because we had about 45 minutes until the music began. On our return we were denied entry because we did not have closed toed shoes and then if we did go in they wanted to charge us a cover fee. Dang. Well back to faux Switzerland we go and end the evening.
Up and off on a well deserved wine tour. The first winery, CLOSED, the next winery was not open yet but as we turned around the owner drove and said the tasting shop would be open in 10 minutes. So up we drove and enjoyed the beauty of the scenery while the cellar door was opened up. Beautiful boutique wines so we purchased a Riesling. Onwards to more wineries, Closed, Closed, next one open with very nice champagne style wines, so nice they took more points than those “Frenchie” ones at competition, Pinot Grigio purchased. Off to find some provisions so we had to divert from the wine route. We found a pleasant location and ate in the car due to inclement weather. Found the last winery, Leaning Church, we had mapped out, Sauvignon Blanc, absolutely delicious.
Tassie evening
We decided to go to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) which we discover has only been open a month. Absolutely amazing so find it on the net and enjoy. To boot it was free with the most incredible technology to let you know where you where and what you were viewing. Then enter your email and you get web access to the tour you took
A terrific drive down and back with a chance stop at a stop called Fish Lips for dinner. It was the best meal we have had in Australia, cooked by a couple of retired Finns who spend half the year in Tassie, and split the remainder in Finland and Queensland. Back to the hotel and prepare for our early morning departure to New Zealand.
Return the car and check in for our flight which was delayed. get some coffee, which we finally figure out how to order, and then through security were we wait again. the announcement eventually comes to begin boarding in about 10 minutes. Also get a text that a credit card was found in the rental car and if we return to the counter we can get it back. Out I go, retrieve Paved "lost" card and am back through security before boarding begins, A very small airport. And we begin our adventurous trip in New Zealand.
Tried to post videos but no luck this time
Regards AJ
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Adelaide and Beyond
She and her husband Mike were teaching during the week so Arne and I stayed in The Adabco Boutique Hotel (not sure about the boutique bit) and busied ourselves in and around the city as usual on buses and this time on bikes (free.) We rode on a hot and dusty day down by the River Torrens. Bikes with three gears gave us a good work out. We followed this with a nostalgic ride on the Obahn - a bus that turns itself into a train and whizzes on a narrow gauge track outside the city and up to the base of the Adelaide hills - a kind of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang for the modern years. Actually it had just been put into service when I was in Adelaide all those years ago. We should try it in Vancouver.
Down by the Torrens
We left the Obahn and took a long bus ride up into the hills to the Cleland Animal Reserve where it was sadly too hot to handle koalas - anything of 32 degrees and koalas can’t be held. Nonetheless they draped themselves so gracefully among the tree branches for us and languidly munched their eucalyptus leaves like roly poly Roman Emperors. We ate our lunch under the jaundiced eye of a kookaburra who looked as if the minute we left he would go off and join his friends for a good natter about tourists.
Too hot to be handled
If you’ve been to Victoria, BC you have a sense of Adelaide - with sun of course and gentle hills all around. They also have Mount Lofty - which isn’t.
It was in Adelaide when we began to get a real sense of how expensive it was to eat out in Australia. But the food is usually good and there’s no tipping so….
As the Australians say, “You’re right.” (said quickly and with a duck of the head)
It means variously, You/he/she/it
Is/ are alright,
or It’s OK, that was my fault,
or, Everything’s fine.
It’s a wonderful, catch-all phrase.
For the most part each day begins with coffee (more about that in a minute) a sweetie,(to eat that is) a drive to somewhere or something which is always interspersed with a picnic lunch for which we assiduously purchase a bottled of chilled sauv blanc (or something else that is white and cold), buns, cheese, sliced meats a carrot and a piece of fruit. Our picky nickys are the favourite part of the day. We have usually driven a distance and found a lovely spot - or not and a table, or not, and then a good nosh. Dinner out has been a bit hit or miss. When you don’t know the area, arrive late, read the guide book for guidance - well sometimes it just doesn’t work. But it rarely matters because lunch is always such a treat.
Coffee: As Canadians who love our drip coffee it has been a challenge to find just a cup ó joe. You can get - long flat black, short flat black, latte, macchiatos… the list is endless. But just a cup of plain, drip coffee - no go. Although Rosie like a true Italian did brew us some fine expresso - so grateful.
But we have found a way to get what we both want in our morning fix. Ask for long, flat black and then bring those little creamers from your hotel room and add them to the coffee which is really a big, strong expresso - success!
We were wined and dined royally by dear friends Angela and David. Their great kids Bonnie and Will actually hung around too while we went on a long and windy trip down memory lane. Some of us (and I won’t mention any names but her name begins with P and ends with e) really enjoyed the champers - until morning and the reckoning.
We spent the weekend with Rosie and Mike with a trip out to the Bourassa Valley (where some of those very drinkables wines come from) and a wine tour. We sipped and munched the afternoon away.
That evening there was a grand party in our honour and many old chums arrived. We laughed over very bad old pictures of ourselves as young teachers and some of us (not mentioning any names but his name starts with an A and ends with an e) really got into our cups and swept me around the kitchen to Stan Rogers singing “Forty five Years From Now.” Have you noticed a bit of a boozy trend here?!
We left Adelaide just as the sun was rising and had a too long and not too comfortable flight to Tasmania - we had to go back to Melbourne and then on to Hobart - no direct flights.
It was good to return to the heady days of my youth (well I was certainly younger) see good friends again and to revisit old haunts and some see some new ones. I always wanted to come back to dear, old Adelaide and thanks to good planning on AJ’s part I got my wish. Actually out for dinner
PJ
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
I was informed that my Mom passed away Feb 15 and Pave'& I had already said our goodbyes before we left. We will finish our trip as sketchy as it is.
Thanks for all the positive feedback on the few post we have already completed.
Regards Arne
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
The end of Melbourne
Jenny, Brenda, Helen ( Samantha's boss), PJ, AJ, Dianne (Kim missing due to improtant work)
We met up with Samantha's colleauges at Melbourne University for lunch and had a great visit.
Wandered around after that and ended up at a free exhibition of Australian Children Books Illustrations. what a fantastict showing of prints with copies of the children's books to read afterwards and experience the complete conception of the work. This building was also the main Library where they had Ned Kelly's original suit of bush armour. Should be a photo here but it did not download and have since cleared the chip.
The next day we went to St Kilda's beach and came across a few live music performances, we liked both spots we hit that we bought cd's and they are great to listen to in the car.
One of the free concerts
Back to the apartment and get ready to move out early the next morning for the train to Adelaide.
So what can I say about Melbourne that impressed me? Well two things actually, first the public transit system is very good and if you know the connections getting somewhere quickly is not too much of a problem and even the ugly people look good in Melbourne. Everyone is so well dressed regardless of the time of day that they look as if they are going to some special event.
Thx AJ
Friday, February 11, 2011
12 Apostles
Off to the tourist office for maps and ideas of what to do. We decided to rent a car and do some outside Melbourne touring. First day we drove the Great Ocean Road for a short portion (hope video appears) the following day we drove to Phillip Island for the Penguin Parade (no photos allowed).
We stopped for our first picnic fortuitously finding an area with a number of picnic tables that had seen better days protected from the offshore winds and relaxed with our $4 bottle of wine, cheese, meat, fruit etc.
The return trip was long and we changed the route back due to the time, still cannot get used to the sun not setting until 8:30 – 9:00 mentally we are still expecting sunset to clue us into dinner time and as such our dinners have been quite late. Stopped in a small town at the local hotel for a delicious meal and off we set for the remainder of the trip. Sheet lightening filled the sky and when we stopped in Geelong, about an hour and a half from Melbourne, to fill up the car, the sky released a torrential downpour, needless to say the wipers worked overtime. The radio reception was disgusting so we never got any info on the state of affairs.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Melbourne
We have a great spot and after a small walk for a brew and nachos we walked around to get a bit oriented and back to the place. When we got in I dropped off to sleep for about 9 hours straight woke up at 3:30 Feb 2 and then slept until 7:00.
I must say prices are quite high for many items including food, much more than I expected but then the last time I was here was 26 years ago. Anyway this is a nice way to begin my retirement even if it is earlier than anticipated.
This trip will be a bit different from 2008 especially since there will be very minimal language difficulties. We have been making travel changes as I type, particularly since the weather in Queensland just seems to get worst. The temps in Melbourne are supposed to cool (high 20’s to mid 30’s) a bit of cloud cover and refreshing winds.
Melbourne is very green with lots of beautiful parks though out the city and suburbs.
More to come from Pave’
Best regards and will add more in future posts.
Thx AJ
Happy Things:
Well I think the Aussies must all be on happy pills – so kind, so helpful. Everyone we speak to steers us in the right direction with a big smile.
Things we like in Melbourne so far:
The Royal Botanical Gardens – lush, shady, and full of bird song.
Federation Square – a wide open plaza, with an old stone cathedral rubbing shoulders with uber-modern buildings and a gaint screen showing England vs Australia in a cricket match.
Our terrific apartment as lovely as can be a complete kitchen, huge, comfy bed and two huge TV’s. We are in South Yarra near trams and trains.
So wonderful to see all the things Samantha told us about – especially Melbourne Uni.
Sad things:
NO DRIP COFFEE. Sigh... but beautiful lattes.
A lady at Fed Square said I could get the seniors discount without asking me my age. Double sigh...
Low Alcohol Beer: Arne is crying (into his beer that is) the highest he can find in a regular beer is 4% Well he will just have to drink more. So I guess that is a sad/happy thing.
Cheers for now.
PJ