south island journey begins

From Auckland we flew to Queenstown. We stepped off the smallish plane onto the tarmac and we were absolutely “gob smacked” by the lung-clearing air and rolling, folded mountains that surrounded us. We drew a deep breath and then rented a car and headed to Wanaka (wa/na/ka) where we took over the accommodation previously reserved by Kathy & Barry. Too bad for you because you missed out on an absolutely fantastic area. What a drive over the pass and the view back towards Queenstown - impossible to describe. This was our introduction to the types of roads we would be travelling over the next few weeks. Twisty turns, narrow, narrow, narrow, more twisty turns. If you have ever driven in Ireland you know what we mean. Pave’ spent a lot of time with her eyes closed as we drove so close to the edge of cliffs little rocks fell over the side.

Once we arrived, booked into our room we got our bearings and had a nap due to the extended flight delay. We found ourselves right by beautiful Wanaka Lake, about 3 minutes from the town centre and just about any type of restaurant you could desire.
We found for the first time our new favourite food store, New World, where we could get everything we needed from coffee to wine. We stocked up on some breakfast provisions with terrific yoghurt and cereal. And lots and lots of that great Kiwi Pinot Gris.

The next day we had a leisurely time around the pool getting our first real sun tanning day where did nothing and had to go nowhere. We used the pool and slide to refresh ourselves a few times interspersed with light refreshments and enjoyed on time on the comfy chaise lounges .
As there is supposed to be a BBQ at the resort we booked a table but were sorely disappointed because they felt the weather was not good enough to eat out side (we are in shorts and flip-flops?) and we ended up with a buffet instead. Somehow BBQ lamb cannot be replaced by chicken, beef, snags (sausages) and other items just from the kitchen. We did however enjoy the happy hour with a great Sauvignon Blanc for $4 NZ a glass just before dinner, should have stocked up on the wine and scarfed down the bar snacks instead of dinner.

Off to the Rob Roy Glacier walk (easy says all the literature) but first we must ford a few water crossings on our 50+ km drive. Hmm, we only have a passenger car so we get out to survey the first ford when another car blithely passes through it and by the time we return to the car another couple of vehicles pass through as well. Well if anyone gets stuck it will not be us.
At the parking lot we see lots of people preparing for the trek with boots, slickers, hats, walking poles basically everything we don’t have but off we set. As usual, we came to realize, the trail began in an easy rolling manner and then it changed
. Now we are going to view a glacier, right. Where are glaciers, up the mountain of course, gee who would have thunk it! Up we go, over washed out areas, past creeks rushing down to the river valley, look for the little orange triangles when the trail disappears. We pass older folks with smiles on their faces heading down with a spring in their step. Well we are not going be to shown up by old farts. Remember the Monty Python skit from the Meaning of Life, come follow me it’s not far, we are almost there. Words of encouragement send us onwards and of course Upwards. We get to a resting point, only 30 minutes away now, when an American going down convinces our weak spirits to continue for the spectacular reward. Other people offer us a walking stick for the continuation. Naw we are Canadians, we are tough, this is just a little mole hill compared to our mountains. We make it and what a reward it is. Our photos just don’t do the scenery justice, you have to feel the atmosphere. Think, Lord of the Rings.
We find a relatively flat but slopping rock to have our lunch. Today I got lesson in weight distribution. Yes, let’s eat our lunch and lighten my load, no the weight just goes to a different location so everything packed up goes down just not in the pack.
We had quite few moochers, Kea birds, tried to join us and everyone else for lunch. They don‘t just want bread scraps. What they really want is the rubber on our Teva walking sandals. Obstinate and aggressive buggers they were. Well it was worth it even when we thought we were caught in a rain storm that turned out to be just the spray being blown back up the valley from all the waterfalls tumbling down from the heavens. And obviously we made it down safe and sound as our travels continue.

Up very early before sun rises the next day for our tour to the Milford Sound. We decided on a tour because the trip although not that far, was going to be a 12 - 14 hour day. Coming back would have been a bugger for AJ and we made a good decision after we experienced the road. We had a small bus with the only seats remaining in the back of the bus next a couple of overflowing individuals so we were a wee bit cramped. Plus the seats were probably designed for thin Japanese tourists. At the first rest stop AJ commandeered the shotgun seat and had a fantastic view for the rest of the trip, when he was awake that is. Definitely a good decision to have someone else do the driving on this trip that was rather challenging in spots. The scenery was exceptional and with a few stops along the way to experience some NZ uniqueness we arrive at the tunnel that has one way traffic at the beginning of the decent to sea level and the Sound. The tunnel or maybe it was the entire road way took over 30+ years to complete (construction stopped for WW II). The tunnel drops 1200 metres in its short distance and only the entrances are reinforced for about 100 metres.
We arrive quite early as there was very little traffic on the road, only about 5 tour busses while the previous day there were 22 large busses, so we got to see our vessel come into dock. They take their queuing very seriously here no getting on the wrong vessel without some commotion.
The boat trip was beautiful but I must say we have just as spectacular fjords but not the legends, that I know about, such as if you get a bit of spray from one particular water fall you would gradually look 10 years younger. We took a bath in those Falls and now can you believe it we have to show id when we purchase liquor!
After our long trip back we stopped in an old mining town, Arrowtown, for dinner before heading back over the mountain for bed around 11:00 PM.

The following day we tackle Mt. Iron just over there, you see it virtually every day, with an easy walk, ok we accomplished an easy trek so hard can an easy walk be?
Well once again we are going up a mountain and this time there is a gale blowing off the lake so we head up the back side. Relatively gentle slope upwards but then we have stairs to negotiate after which the trail becomes more like 4th Ave between Stephens and Balsam Streets. Recall the Friendly Giant, Look up, Look Way up. We struggle, we puff, we pause for breath, we lean on our thighs. This is very challenging for us. Then, we look up. A mother, a grandmother and two little girls in raincoats and rubber boots have already done the climb and are working their way down. An older man walks briskly towards us wearing only flip flops - he walks like he is out for a stroll. It was all very demoralizing. Just when we thought we were getting into shape along come these Kiwis and show us what walking (tramping) is really all about. Sigh….Oh yes and as we are making our weary way down that guy in the flip flops is heading up again. Double sigh… Not to for get the young woman running up the hill who passed us when she going down as well then passed us again while she was heading up once more, for who knows how many times. Quick now don’t let her lap us again going down. Yea we win, sort of.
We search out a picnic spot away from the lake and the blustery day we just experienced on top of the mount. We find it a few clicks away by a gentle brook and tuck in.
That evening we go out for a movie experience. Playing was The Tourist, Johnny Depp & Angelina Jolie, and the theatre showed three different movies throughout the day. Attached to it is a small restaurant where you may purchase your usual theatre goodies or some form of libation which you can take into the theatre. There is a mid-movie break so we ordered our dinner, two Moroccan lamb burgers, headed into the theatre with the rest of the cattle stampede and ensconced ourselves into a very comfy love seat. Now who could complain about holding your love close to you while you both enjoy your glass of wine?
Half time and our table is reserved for us and as we set ourselves down the wine is served and then the lamb burgers are presented. Do you like beet root? Well if you don’t, don’t order any type of burger in NZ, it’s like French fried potatoes in Ireland you just get them regardless. End of the movie we head home as AJ has a big day ahead of him. BUNGY JUMP!!!!!!

We are up, not awake though, so we get our coffee, cereal & yoghurt ready and have a somewhat relaxing breakfast. On goes the heart monitor, steady 58, ok the drive over the mountain will pick it up, up to 70 even with the careening around corners as I monitor the rate. Arrive at the bridge must be getting excited as I now am 80+. Ok now out on the bridge and look over, no major change. Ok go in a register, too early just about 90 as I watch other video footage. Finally get registered, 97 kg pretty damn good as I was only 96 kg when I was at the Healthy Heart program. Walk out and wait for the jump crew. As I get strapped up I reach 92, shuffle out to the edge up to 93. Last minute instructions and I let them know I would be very disappointed if I do not at least touch the water, I asked for at least waist level. Alright don’t jump out too far as this will reduce the actual downward travel. Look at the cameral then look at the other camera, shit the rate has risen to 93. Get the direction right, look down wrong, what am I doing here, just a minute I think have I got all the details right. 5,4,3,2,1 I hear from behind. Damned if you do damned if you don’t. Out I go, what a feeling, did I really feel anything, not a sound just the air rushing by, the water coming closer, better bring the arms in for impact, fingers touch the water I slip into the river like a hot knife must pass through soft butter. Retracted faster than I entered realizing I never made as sound going down, time for the McKenzie Bros. famous Great White North call. Rebound give a yell of joy. Get pulled in and lowered into the rescue raft, untethered and back on shore. V for victory or was it the peace sign? HR only 92 when I thought of looking in the raft. Guess I need a bit more excitement in my life maybe skydiving next. Running back up the hill I finally get a rate of 130+ until I stop at the top. Buy all the extras, video, photos, postcards and get a free tee-shirt for the 34m jump. I would (will) do it again when the moths are too thick in my wallet.
We head back, around the mountain and stop for a cider which turns out to be about 100 metres from where we ate lunch just the other day and as we walk in there is a fire blazing away, t-shirts, shorts and flip flops for us again.

Going to post this as we are leaving Auckland and may or may not get some photos attached prior to our departure. We start our journey northward the next day.

Auckland

Auckland - just like every other big city. And not. There are great big phallic towers - The Sky Tower being the granddaddy of them all. There is much and bustle and hustle. TONS of restaurants, and shops and no ends of ways to spend your money. But, and it is a big but, you can also hop on a ferry and a half hour later, sun and the gods willing, you can be basking on the island of Waheki beach with sand like talcum.
We spent four days here and we think we can say with some authority that we know this city as well as any tourist can. Enjoy the photos.

PJ & AJ

the Auckland skyline from the ferry

Half mast for Christchurch

enjoying the island life

remnants of our first NZ picnic

how's this for a phallic symbol

the real thing at Kelly Tarltons

Back in the jaws again
on our way to Waiheke just out of Auckland
Tourist almost taken by Great white